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The Lowly Jump Ring
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Categories: Products; Instruction and information; Jewelry

Word count/read time: 408 words; 1-1/2 minutes

This is arguably the most crucial individual part of any jewelry design since it is literally the glue that binds. Without them, there wouldn't be chains and everything would be a shaped or carved chunk of metal. Need an earring? It probably needs a jump ring. A charm or pendant? One there, too.

Most jump rings are round but there are reasons for other shapes. They are easily made in a basic work area. All that's needed are a saw and mandrel, undoubtedly two of the most important tools for a jeweler. With a spool of wire the possibilities are limitless.

Because they are ubiquitous with jewelry design, they have a "variety" of appearances. Aside from shape, their function can be impaired in many ways during the manufacturing and assembly processes.

Homemade jump rings are created by coiling wire around a mandrel and slicing the coil along its edge, preferably with a jeweler's saw. Without saw-cut rings, the finished piece will be a novelty or costume accessory at best.

Luxury and quality should be evident if it's jewelry. Simply, the only ones acceptable for human consumption - animal lovers would want no less for their pets - are saw-cut rings.

Some people don't have the time, patience, or desire to make their own rings because it can be mundane. Boring. We can leave those tasks to someone else. Here's what you'll find:

Saw-cut - Beyond a crooked cut or using an obscenely thick hacksaw blade, there are few problems. Regarding thicker blades, as the rings get smaller and blades get thicker the rings become more ovalized/deformed when closed.

 
Luxury and quality should be evident if it's jewelry.
 
Modified flush-cut - It is possible to make near-perfect jump rings individually with ultra-flush cutters, albeit slowly. Cut the exposed end of the coil with the flush side. Turn the cutters around and cut off a jump ring, lining up the cutters with the existing edge. With proper technique and practice, both edges will be flat and square.

Pinch-cut - Nippers, cutters, and pliers deform jump rings according to the science of metal failure. Some nippers are much worse than others.

Shear-cut - Often made by machines at ridiculously fast speeds, they are the least expensive. They will always remain popular for financial reasons. They are about the same as pinch-cut, therefore unsuitable for jewelry.

Final note regarding pinch- and shear-cut rings: Simple math and physics explain why these rings are junk. No amount of arguing will disprove these facts.


Posted by M: February 28, 2019


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