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Categories: Products; Instruction and information; Jewelry

Word count/read time: 371 words; 1-1/2 minutes

And synners will be punished brutally in the afterlife! Who knew such a microcosm of jewelry design could have such religious undertones? Seriously, this is about synclastic and anticlastic shapes. They are quite common in jewelry and throughout the natural world. Synclastic designs can be found here and anticlastic ones here.

How are the two shapes defined? It all has to do with the curve. Does it challenge the movement and disrupt an existing flow (anticlastic)? Or is it like water and yields to the inertia, a shape with one direction and purpose (synclastic)? Sounds a bit new-age hippie weirdness but it's simple.

Both are easy to picture. Imagine a hollow donut. Lay it down like the letter 'O' and cut it into inner and outer sections (the cut is perpendicular, not horizontal like a bagel). It'll make two pieces. An anticlastic shape would be made from the inner one and a synclastic one from the outer.

The 3D shape introduces a significant structural component; less material can be used to get the necessary strength. Lighter shapes mean less material which reduces the cost and makes it easier to work with.

 
It all has to do with the curve.
 
This strengthening effect can be seen in modern life. Automobiles have large swaths of thin metal veneering them. Without reliefs, lines, and waves the body panels would be flimsy. The ridges and curves add strength so panels won't buckle or dent with the slightest push. It adds an aesthetic appeal, too.

Making a piece of jewelry with these shapes is normally done by forging (hammering) a strip of metal around a mandrel or die. The metal will stretch and compress so it's not as simple as hitting it with a hammer a few times. It will need to be worked gradually and annealed as necessary.

Another method uses a hydraulic press, dies, and thick rubber pads; it is quicker and more consistent than old-school methods. With minimal training a person can produce quality items from the beginning.

Aside from functional limitations, shapes can be combined. Any designs can co-mingle with another. The possibilities are limitless, truly, but don't look to me for every design idea. I will showcase a few classics and you'll let your imagination run free after that.


Posted by M: March 27, 2022


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