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Holy Micromaille!
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Repair parts for sterling silver mesh purses popular in the early 20th century flapper era are not commercially available. All parts and supplies must be harvested from pre-existing pieces or made from scratch. Prior to 1912 these were hand-woven...I can only imagine the tedium from spending a day behind the magnifier.

Several problems result from micromaille:
  • 27ga to 31ga wire is not something available in the usual channels
  • If it isn't sterling or pure silver it'll have to be custom made
  • The tiny mandrel must be sturdy
  • Cutting the coil requires entirely new methods
  • The pliers or tweezers may be too large to be used effectively
  • Soldering can be a challenge

The most difficult task is weaving a ring into already-made mesh. Each ring has to go through four others (assuming the pattern is the European 4-in-1 version, which most purses are). Rings close to the frame are the worst because the mesh is stationary, tight, and there is limited space to maneuver.

 
With a little practice it's possible to hum along at the rate of one ring every few minutes.
 
Did I forget step 4a, which is figuring out how to hold the purse and ring simultaneously? Or step 4b which is keeping the ring positioned while trying to grasp it? There was a step 5c or 6a somewhere. Who would've thought opening a ring a certain way would matter so much!

The next problem is closing a ring that is smaller than a peppercorn. Even the smallest gap will let other rings slip through, making it all for naught. With a little practice it's possible to hum along at the rate of one ring every few minutes.

A micro-TIG can weld small links if they're accessible. So could soldering or brazing. Or laser and plasma welding. As the temperatures increase so does the possibility of collateral damage.

Everything I've been doing so far has worked on regular micromaille purses, the smallest using 0.3mm to 0.35mm wire with 1.6mm inner diameter rings. Today, an Austrian 0.800 silver mesh purse showed up. There are more than 16,000 rings per ounce! At least 1/3 of the weight is the mesh so that's more than 50,000 rings.


Posted by M: December 21, 2015


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