Gyrogami Blog - Precious Metals, Jewelry, Artwork

Solid Gold Chain

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Categories: Projects and equipment; Jewelry

Word count/read time: 446 words; 2 minutes

It has been made. An update can be found here.

Commanding a high price tag is a double-edge sword because no one wants an expensive chain that feels like a cat-o-nine-tails. Gold doesn't make it jewelry or high-quality by default; those titles must be earned.

Machines can whip out 2-in-1 or herringbone chains with amazing precision and consistency for a price just over spot. Many jewelers do not make chains because they can't compete with these mass-produced denizens. Chains are so boring, too, right? While machines could theoretically be programmed to weave any chain, the tooling cost ensures they avoid the obscure weaves.

I am planning to make an exquisite solid gold chainmaille bracelet. Sometime. The striking Jens Pind Linkage 5 weave is the most admired in my portfolio. JPL sizes are strictly governed by the wire diameter and this particular JPL5, made with ~3/16" inner diameter rings from 1.0mm wire, seems to be the ideal configuration. Coincidentally this size works equally well for either sex.

It will be luxurious, flawless, and truly one-of-a-kind. A five-colored version would create a stunning show stopper! Realistically it will probably have one or two colors and be forged from 18k gold. Based on preliminary calculations, nearly two ounces make a 10" long section. That's some serious gold value!

Creating the ideal alloys and solders will prove a time toilet. With good documentation it will be a one-time deal though it may take a few attempts to get there. They will be custom mixed and cast with all parts and materials manufactured entirely in my shop: wire, jump rings, findings.

Regarding the clasp, to ensure it is legally handmade it must be crafted entirely from raw materials. An off-the-shelf finding is convenient but it makes the item NOT handmade, quite a sacrifice for such a paltry return. While my toggle clasps have proven infallible, this might call for something that will simultaneously defy and define what is possible with handmade. Not exactly a small task.

Then comes the long process of assembling the tiny links. Mistakes will be abundant so wrangling the expensive nuggets is critical. Neglectful material control is an easy and costly habit to adopt. To go from scrap metal to a finished good uses a boatload of tools and workspace. While a clean workbench is ideal, the catered messiness will remain as everything might have to be repeated if it goes bunk.

Meticulous accurately describes every step of making gold jewelry. Without a consistent history of flawless work in other metals then anything made with gold will be costly scrap. Maybe it will be the biggest fail in round one. But it will happen on my terms.

Posted by M: June 10, 2018

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