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Rules of Engagement

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Finished ring

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Word count/read time: 440 words; 2 minutes

Stoned again, literally and figuratively. A recent request to make an engagement ring came to me. Stone-setting is not something I do often. Come to think of it, I've only set stones for engagement rings. This special occasion couldn't be dismissed.

An assortment of old family jewelry became the foundation for the new ring. There was plenty of gold; a streak of platinum wasn't big enough to make anything but perhaps it'd be enough for an alloying agent. The emerald-cut stone was a natural green one as evidenced by the occlusions within.

I suggested several ring styles but instructed her to look for something she wanted. While a tension-set ring is always stunning, this stone was wholly unfit for such an adventure given its fragile, fissured features.

A tension-set in spirit using a bezel was the solution for this solitaire design. The jacketed gemstone is held in place with light tension and the ensemble is soldered to the ring body. It is unusual, something most people haven't seen in person, adding to its curb appeal and allure.

I mocked one up in fine silver to understand the complexity. New designs require new methods and those don't always work the first time. Several attempts later I got it done. The final version would need soldering whereas I'm more of a welding guy, but it's not a problem.

She was partial to silvery metals so either a white gold or platinum were contenders. I was pushing for the latter given its durability, strength, and appearance. Less expensive than gold, by no means would it be a compromise. While either would behave differently than silver, the basic techniques and methods are similar.

Ready for manufacturing, she decided to purchase an oval white sapphire instead. The full bezel profile hid too much of it given its size and shape. Back to the drawing board where I designed a four-pronged bezel.

Also, she dismissed platinum because she thought it would be too heavy, and also gold for other reasons. I argued that an anti-oxidation silver was less than ideal (especially given the chemical composition of her well water - it oxidizes even the hardiest silver). She regretted it. This is the one rule that I should've pulled rank on. Sometimes the customer isn't right.

After a bit of finagling and an embarrassing number of attempts, it was completed. Much easier each subsequent iteration with fewer should'ves, could'ves, and less cursing. The wedding band was initially platinum but she didn't like the color next to the silver, so it was changed to silver as well. He, embracing the "happy wife, happy life" mantra, chose the same.

Posted by M: August 5, 2026

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