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So Many Gold Alloys

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Categories: Instruction and information; Jewelry

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Let's get some facts on the table. Pure gold is 24k, meaning that out of 24 parts, 24 of them are gold. With 22k gold, 22 parts are gold and the remainder are other metals and likewise down the line. Sometimes they are expressed as a decimal so 18k gold, being 18 parts gold and six parts other metals, would be 0.750 purity (18/24). For 10k, it is ten parts gold and 14 parts other metals, thus 10/24 = 0.417 purity.

Lest you think the world is limited to 10k to 18k yellow gold, I have a chart that will blow you away here regarding all the different alloys and karats. Why so many? Well, there are several reasons both practical and ornamental for the dversity.

Investment gold bars and coins are a special version of 24k compared to jewelry of the same. Jewelry allows as assay of 0.993 for soldered jewelry. Bullion-quality gold is at least 0.999 pure and the current world standard for bank gold is now 0.9999 purity. Some gold coins like special Canadian Maple Leafs may be 0.99999!

Pure gold is too soft for most jewelry. It's one thing to be an earring and another entirely to be a gemstone setting. Consider the latter a guaranteed failure as the prongs easily bend by hand. Say goodbye to that prized stone. Bezel-set stones, however, may be acceptable.

Gold's strength and durability are increased by alloying it. Common gold alloys are 18k, 14k, and 10k. The difference between 24k pure and a hardy 14k white is like night and day. Relatively speaking, one is like a wet noodle and the other like a steel rod!

Why all the fuss over what metals comprise the remainder? Those metals determine the color as much as the durability and strength. Still, most common gold alloys are suitable for any purpose though not every color in a given karat is created equal.

Gold is fascinating due to the vast number of alloys, something the other precious metals lack. There can be a half-dozen known color variants in a given karat. When placed side-by-side, the color difference is striking. Imagine a five-band interlocked bangle with white, pink, rose, red, and green golds!

Higher karats are more desirable, valuable, substantial, and elegant to start with. But there may be another reason for choosing such. Some people are highly sensitive to certain metals and the last thing they want is to be wearing a ring that contains one of their trigger metals. In other words, is it hypoallergenic to a given user? For any color gold, it will be less troublesome to the masses at higher purities.

Still, some people are relegated to the precious metal alloys, meaning only gold, silver, platinum, and palladium. Zinc and copper cause problems; nickel, it only gets worse. Also, some might be sensitive to a copper-based 14k gold but not an 18k version.

White gold jewelry is a black sheep to me. Nearly every piece is electroplated with rhodium because the gold is a dull gray or silver. No one likes this, apparently. Rhodium makes it shiny. It's less likely to cause allergic reactions and is harder than the underlying metal. However, it must be replated when the rhodium wears away (the inconvenience and additional expenses are forever);

What's the point if the true color is an impostor? I instruct my clients to choose platinum instead of a rhodium-plated white gold. (Mind you, the platinum- or palladium-based ones could be left as-is.) However, some people only want gold. Hey, if you like your jewelry to get cosmetic plastic surgery every few years via a rhodium facelift then go for it!

Of course I work with gold. You can find a dedicated page here. Custom orders are basically the norm so don't hesitate to ask. The price is not increased because it is custom. However long it takes and however much material is used are the determining factor, not whether or not my production line is dedicated to a particular design.

Posted by M: October 4, 2026

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